Frequently Asked Questions

  • How much would it cost to have my (**insert item here**) dipped?
    This question is virtually impossible to answer due to the number of possibilities for any given project. What is most annoying is when a company does list prices, but they list them as "Starting at..." and you most always end up paying more than the price they list.

    When you call to schedule your project we give you a price that you can expect to pay. We can say that our pricing is on par (and usually below) the industry standard. So, if you happen to find pricing on a competitors site, you can usually expect to pay close to, or even lower than what they have listed.

    For more information regarding the pricing of your particular project, feel free to contact us by phone or using our contact page and let us know what questions you have.
  • What kind of things can be dipped?
    For the most part, if it can be submerged in water, it can be dipped. Items that are made out of metal, plastic, fiberglass, wood, ceramic or bone are the best. Ideally it should be a hard material that is not subject to flexing or friction, which may ultimately cause the paint or finish to degrade over time.

    Items that can NOT be dipped are silicone, rubber, or any other material that is soft. Since part of the process involves solvents that may weaken or destroy certain materials, we may not be able to dip certain items. As an example, some cell phone case have a rubber "bumper" around the outer edge, with a solid plastic backing. This is fine, as we will tape over the rubber and only dip the solid back. However, soft cases that are made entirely of rubber or silicone will not be able to be dipped.
  • How long does it take to have my item dipped?
    The process of dipping the item takes very little time. It's the process of preparing the item, and the time that it takes the clear coat protective layer to fully dry that takes the longest. With that in mind, we usually allow a 3-day window from start to finish for each project. The overall size of your item plays a big part in this as well. Obviously the time it takes for a cell phone case to dry is a lot less than the time it would take for a set of 22" wheels to dry. We will let you know the approximate time for your individual project based on the complexity as well as our current workload.
  • How durable is the finish?
    We take pride in the durability and longevity of our finishes. For most items this involves 2-3 layers of clear coat in either matte, semi-gloss or high gloss finish. Most items are then wet-sanded with increasingly finer grit sand paper, followed by polishing to a glassy, mirror-like finish. Items with complex curves or tight contours are flow coated during the clearing process to avoid the need to wet-sand those hard to reach areas. For items that are subject to abuse (i.e. sporting helmets, wheels, etc.) additional layers of clear coat may be applied for added protection and durability.
  • Do you require a deposit?
    Most smaller projects do not rquire a deposit, and you will pay when the item is ready for delivery. For larger projects, or ones with many items or parts (i.e. 50 football helmets, or 3 firearms with multiple pieces), we do require a 50% deposit before any work is begun. For these types of projects we need to be able to cover the cost of materials, as well as the initial labor for prepping the items for dipping.
  • What types of payment do you accept?
    We accept cash, all major credit cards, and personal/business checks (subject to verification)
  • Can you do custom patterns and finishes?
    We do have the ability to do custom patterns, however there is an added charge for for creating and printing the film.
  • Can I provide my own hydrographic film for you to dip my item?
    Absolutely. If there is a specific pattern that you like, and you want to purchase the film yourself, that is fine. With that said, if the items that you are having us dip are complex (i.e. curves, angles, unusual surfaces, etc) we may need to perform the process mutliple times. While we do not charge for this, it would require additional film, or enough to account for any issues that may arise.
  • Are there any aftercare proceedures I need to follow?
    The general rule of thumb is that if you wouldn't use it to clean the paint on your car, don't use it to clean your newly dipped item. Solvents such as denatured alcohol, lacquer thinner, acetone, etc will remove the clear coat finish, and could even eat down into the actual hydrographic pattern itself.

    Mild cleaning soaps such as Dawn dish soap or various car wash products are best for removing dirt, oils, fingerprints, etc and keeping the finish as nice as possible
  • I have a small knick in the finish. How can I get it out?
    The best way to fix any small nicks, scratches, etc. is to take a high-grit sandpaper (i.e. 1500-2500 grit) and lightly sand the area. Once you have a smooth surface you can polish it with your favorite automotive polish and it should bring the finish back to life.